Friday, October 12, 2012

Halloween Safety Tips


ASPCA


No Scaredy Cats This Halloween: Top 10 Safety Tips for Pet Parents

Attention, animal lovers, it's almost the spookiest night of the year! The ASPCA recommends taking some common sense precautions this Halloween to keep you and your pet saying "trick or treat!" all the way to November 1.
 
1. No tricks, no treats: That bowl of candy is for trick-or-treaters, not for Scruffy and Fluffy. Chocolate in all forms—especially dark or baking chocolate—can be very dangerous for dogs and cats. Candies containing the artificial sweetener xylitol can also cause problems. If you do suspect your pet has ingested something toxic, please call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.
 
2. Popular Halloween plants such as pumpkins and decorative corn are considered to be relatively nontoxic, but they can produce stomach upset in pets who nibble on them.
 
3. Wires and cords from electric lights and other decorations should be kept out of reach of your pets. If chewed, your pet might suffer cuts or burns, or receive a possibly life-threatening electrical shock.
 
4. A carved pumpkin certainly is festive, but do exercise caution if you choose to add a candle. Pets can easily knock a lit pumpkin over and cause a fire. Curious kittens especially run the risk of getting burned or singed by candle flames.
 
5. Dress-up can be a big mess-up for some pets. Please don't put your dog or cat in a costume UNLESS you know he or she loves it (yup, a few pets are real hams!). For pets who prefer their “birthday suits,” however, wearing a costume may cause undue stress.

6. If you do dress up your pet, make sure the costume isn't annoying or unsafe. It should not constrict the animal's movement or hearing, or impede his ability to breathe, bark or meow. Also, be sure to try on costumes before the big night. If your pet seems distressed, allergic, or shows abnormal behavior, consider letting him go au naturale or donning a festive bandana.
 
7. Take a closer look at your pet’s costume and make sure it does not have small, dangling or easily chewed-off pieces that he could choke on. Also, ill-fitting outfits can get twisted on external objects or your pet, leading to injury.
 
8. All but the most social dogs and cats should be kept in a separate room away from the front door during peak trick-or-treating hours. Too many strangers can be scary and stressful for pets.
 
9. When opening the door for trick-or-treaters, take care that your cat or dog doesn't dart outside.
  
10. IDs, please! Always make sure your dog or cat has proper identification. If, for any reason, your pet escapes and becomes lost, a collar and tags and/or a microchip can be a lifesaver, increaing the chances that he or she will be returned to you.

 

 

Saturday, September 15, 2012

A Pet Sitting Scam???

petsits.com 
 
Scam´mer: a person who swindles you by means of deception or fraud

Many people have heard of the more common scams in the world, and most have received their own share of "You've won the lottery" of a foreign country emails.

However, many new pet sitters don't realize how common it is for scammers to target specific industries with their online scams. Pet Sitting / Dog Walking is definitely one of those industries, and once a new sitter lists an email address on any website (including their own business website), it becomes only a matter of time before they will be targeted by a scammer.

The good news is that scams only work if you fall for them.

How The Pet Sitting Scam Works


The most common pet sitting scam in 2007-2009 is an overpayment scam. There may be many variations.

As a second aspect of the same scam, the scammer may request "errand" services like "opening mail" and "sending gifts" from other pet sitters as a way to pass the overpayments through a local address to the other scammed dog walkers and pet sitters.

The scam starts with a scammer inquiring about pet sitter services, often specifically dog walking services. Or the scammer may offer to give away an animal (often a dog), or may claim to be wanting to buy an animal (mistaking pet sitters for dog breeders).

When a pet sitter responds, an offer is made by the scammer to send payment for services or goods by Money Order, often from some time of "business" the scammer claims to work for, or a government "embassy." 

The amount of the Money Order will be written for more than the amount needed, and the recipient is to send the extra on to a 3rd party.

The Money Orders are fraudulent. However, many banks will still cash the Money Order and place the funds into the pet sitters account within a few days. However, usually within a month, the Money Order is returned as fraudulent, and the bank will withdraw the money from the pet sitter's account. The bank may also charge extra fees, and may pursue the sitter with criminal charges for cashing a fake check.

By that time, the pet sitter has often thought that since the bank cashed the check, it was good - and they've already sent legitimate funds back to the scammer, often using western union. Usually the scammer is long gone with the money by this time.

The scammer also separately requests "errand" services from other pet sitters. The fraudulent checks are sent first to these pet sitters, who repackage them and forward them on to you. This gives the mail a local (U.S.) envelop and stamp instead of the original Nigeria labels - making the check look more legit.

This sitter is usually paid with a fraudulent check also. And since mail fraud is a federal offense, this sitter can be in serious legal trouble for mailing a fraudulent check - even though they didn't know it was all a scam.

How Scammers Find Their Targets


Many scammers use software that scours the internet for pages that have certain key phrases, such as Pet Sitter, Dog Walker, Pet Nanny, and Pet Care. The programs catalog any and all email addresses listed on these pages. Pet sitter directories are especially popular.

Once a list is made, the scam is sent out to every email on the list. There can be hundreds or thousands of emails on each list. It only takes one or two gullible pet sitters to make it worthwhile.

How to Spot A Scam

Scammers change their tactics daily to make their scams better and more noticeable. So there is no guaranteed way to spot a scam. However, there are some individual current key factors that should raise your suspicions:

  • When you first read the email, it sounds like a terrific opportunity. The scammers count on pet sitters (especially newbies) being so excited by the request, that they turn off their normal "too good to be true" sensors.
  • The "To" address on the email messages is not your email address. A real client will generally find your email address on a website, and send email directly to that account. If the "To" is blank, or the same as the "From," or has some nickname for you, that is less likely to be from a client.
  • The client is traveling to your location from outside the U.S. This is very rare. A survey on the message board found that so far, no sitters have received a legitimate request of this nature.
  • The client plans to write a payment for more than they owe you, and you are to send the extra elsewhere. Clients just never do this. Nor should you ever let them!
  • The clients says you have to wait for payment for services because the business they work for is going to write out and mail you check directly. It is true that some businesses will cut checks for pet sitting services. However, this is rare - so it should raise a red flag for you. And it is more common for the client to get reimbursed than the business to pay the service directly. A business will certainly will not pay extra directly to you to send on to somewhere else.
  • Scammers tend to start from the perspective that all they have to do is contact you to get you booked. So their messages start with "I will be needing your dog walking services" and ask for nothing but a price quote. Real clients tend to start with "I'm interested in learning more about your business" and then follow up with some questions. They often will feel you out before jumping in.
  • The message is from a Yahoo user. That in itself is not a sign that it's a scam, but many scammers do use Yahoo for some reason.
  • The IP is from Nigeria or another foreign country. If you are a bit computer savvy, you can find the sender's IP in the headers and look it up at a service such as AllNetTools to see the originating country of the email.
  • Requested vacations are very long (such as a month). And time requests are longer than average sits lengths. Plus, the times are very flexible.
  • Punctuation is poor, and the English is questionable.
  • The sender has a very odd name. Sometimes the last name may actually be a common first name.
  • They may use terms like "Soonest," "Regards," and "God."
  • They may offer to call you, or insist that you call them. Scammers get a hold of used cell phones, and will often offer phone contact in order to convince you that they are good people with a legitimate service need.
  • When asked for a picture of their pets, they will send you a picture of a show dog (usually found on Google images).
  • They may keep trying to snag you, even if you start to question them. Some will go as far as still trying to scam you after you've told them you've been contacted by the FBI.

Note: As soon as the scammers read this list, they will likely change their scams to avoid these things.

About The Scammers


Online Scammers in Nigeria and other countries are not often like the rich offline scammers you hear about on the news in the U.S.

Overseas scammers often come from very poor areas. They are trained to do scams very efficiently. For many, this is their FULL time job. They sit in internet cafes all day long, and they are very good at smooth-talking victims after a victim takes the first bait.

Responding that you know it is a scam, or other excuses why you can't help them will not impress the scammers. They have thousands of other scams out there to manage and people to write back to, so they will just ignore your response if it's not promising.

How To Avoid Getting Scammed


  • Trust your instinct from the first instant.
  • Never accept overpayment for pet sitting with the expectation to send some of it on to somewhere else.
  • Never offer your birthdate, SSN, username, bank, or other private information to anyone online. Especially if they are asking you to "confirm" something for security reasons.
  • Never click a link provided in an email message.
  • See if others have already received the same (or a very similar) email message.
  • Read through previous scams to get a feel for how the messages work.
 

Saturday, September 1, 2012

HOUSETRAINING YOUR PUPPY

 

Housetraining a puppy requires time, vigilance, patience, and commitment. By following the procedures outlined below, you can minimize house soiling incidents, but virtually every puppy will have an accident in the house (more likely several). It is simply part of raising a puppy. The more consistent you are in following the basic housetraining procedures, the faster you puppy will learn acceptable behavior. It may take several weeks to housetrain your puppy, and with some of the smaller breeds, it might take longer.

Establish a Routine

Like babies, puppies do best on a regular schedule. Take your puppy outside frequently, at least every two hours, immediately after he wakes up from a nap, after playing, and after eating.

Praise your puppy lavishly every time he eliminates outdoors and give him a treat. You must praise him and give him a treat immediately after he’s finished eliminating, not after he comes back inside the house. This step is vital, because rewarding your dog for eliminating outdoors is the only way he’ll know that is what you want him to do.  

Choose a location not too far from the door to be the bathroom spot. Always take your puppy directly to the bathroom area. Take him for a walk or play with him only after he has eliminated. If you clean up an accident in the house, take the soiled rags or paper towels and leave them in the bathroom spot. The smell will help your puppy recognize the area as the place he is supposed to eliminate. While your puppy is eliminating, use a word or phrase, like "go potty," that you can eventually use before he eliminates to remind him of what he’s supposed to be doing. If possible, put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule. Depending on their age, puppies usually need to be fed three or four times a day. Feeding your puppy at the same time each day will make it more likely that he’ll eliminate at consistent times as well. This makes housetraining easier for both of you.
 

Supervise, Supervise, Supervise!

Don’t give your puppy an opportunity to soil the house. He should be watched at all times when he is indoors. You can tether him to you with a six-foot leash or use baby gates to keep him in the room where you are. Watch for signs that he needs to eliminate, like sniffing around or circling. When you see these signs, immediately take him outside to his bathroom spot. If he eliminates, praise him lavishly and reward him with a treat.

Confinement

When you’re unable to watch your puppy at all times, he should be confined to an area small enough that he won’t want to eliminate there. It should be just big enough for him to comfortably stand, lie down, and turn around. This area could be a portion of a bathroom or laundry room, blocked off with boxes or baby gates; or you may want to crate train your puppy and use the crate to confine him. If your puppy has spent several hours in confinement, when you let him out, take him directly to his bathroom spot and praise him when he eliminates.

Oops!

Expect your puppy to have an accident in the house—it’s a normal part of housetraining a puppy.

• When you catch him in the act of eliminating in the house, do something to interrupt him (make a startling noise, but be careful not to scare him). Immediately take him to his bathroom spot, praise him, and give him a treat if he finishes eliminating there.

• Don’t punish your puppy for eliminating in the house. If you find a soiled area, it’s too late to administer a correction. Do nothing but clean it up. Rubbing your puppy’s nose in it, taking him to the spot and scolding him, or any other punishment or discipline will only make him afraid of you and/or afraid to eliminate in your presence. Animals don’t understand punishment after the fact, even if it’s only seconds later. Punishment will do more harm than good.

• Cleaning the soiled area is very important because puppies are highly motivated to continue soiling in areas that smell like urine or feces. 

Its extremely important that you use the supervision and confinement procedures outlined above to minimize the number of accidents. If you allow your puppy to eliminate frequently in the house, he’ll get confused about where he’s supposed to eliminate, which will prolong the housetraining process.

Paper Training

A puppy less than six months of age cannot be expected to control his bladder for more than a few hours at a time. If you have to be away from home for more than four or five hours a day, this may not be the best time for you to get a puppy. If you’re already committed to having a puppy and have to be away from home for long periods of time, you’ll need to train your puppy to eliminate in a specific place indoors. Be aware, however, that doing so can prolong the process of teaching him to eliminate outdoors. Teaching your puppy to eliminate on newspaper may create a life-long surface preference, meaning that he may, even in adulthood, eliminate on any newspaper he finds lying around the house.

When your puppy must be left alone for long periods, confine him to an area with enough room for a sleeping space, a playing space, and a separate place for him to eliminate. In the area designated as the elimination place, you can either use newspapers or a sod box. To make a sod box, place sod in a container, like a child’s small plastic swimming pool. You can also find dog litter products at a pet store. If you clean up an accident in the house, take the soiled rags or paper towels and put them in the designated elimination place. The smell will help your puppy recognize the area as the place where he is supposed to eliminate.

Other Types of House-Soiling Problems

If you’ve consistently followed the housetraining procedures and your puppy continues to eliminate in the house, there may be another reason for his behavior.

• Medical problems: House-soiling can often be caused by physical problems such as a urinary tract infection or a parasite infection. Check with your veterinarian to rule out any possibility of disease or illness.

• Submissive/excitement urination: Some dogs, especially young ones, temporarily lose control of their bladders when they become excited or feel threatened. This usually occurs during greetings, intense play, or when they are about to be punished.

• Territorial Urine-Marking: Dogs sometimes deposit urine or feces, usually in small amounts, to scent-mark their territory. Both male and female dogs do this, and it most often occurs when they believe their territory has been invaded.

• Fears and Phobias: When animals become frightened, they may lose control of their bladder and/or bowels. If your puppy is afraid of loud noises, such as thunderstorms or fireworks, he may house-soil when he’s exposed to these sounds.

 
Calm Your Pet During Fireworks & Thunderstorms
 

 

Provide a Safe Spot

Whether it's a closet or a crate, it's good for dogs and cats to have a go-to place for relaxing or hiding away. A closet or crate, when your pet seeks out such a space, can provide a safe and secure feeling, much like a den. However, if a crate or closet creates more anxiety, it should not be used. Very often, a crate is more effective if your pet has grown up using a crate since they were young.

Counteract the Noise

Distracting your pet with the TV, radio—classical music works well—or other "white noise"  will work to combat sounds of thunderstorms, fireworks, and the like. Just make sure your alternative to the fearful sounds is not being played at a deafening decibel. This may inadvertently add to your pet’s stress level.

Use Desensitization

There are some pets that are able to overcome their fears by listening to CDs or audio recordings of the loud noises during times of calm. Play it at a low volume while applying your dog or cat with positive stimuli, such as treats and affectionate petting. Slowly increase the volume over a period of weeks until it reaches the levels your pet would encounter in real life.

Use Electromagnetism

Though it may sound like voodoo, your pet can also become sensitized to the electromagnetic radiation caused by lightning strikes. One great way to shield your dog or cat from these potentially fear-provoking waves is to cover his/her crate with a double layer of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Another effective method involves using commercial products such as calming collars or storm shirts/capes.

Use the Thundershirt

The Thundershirt is a proven solution to a dog's anxiety.  It uses gentle, constant pressure to calm your dog effectively aiding anxiety, fearfulness, barking, etc.  Visit www.thundershirt.com for more information.

Consult a Professional

If things are becoming overwhelming, seek professional help. Your veterinarian may be able to relieve some of the anxiety through the use of drugs. There are also board certified veterinary behaviorists that are skilled in handling these types of situations. In the end veterinarians want the same thing you want — for your pet not to suffer.
 
 


Doesn't Man's Best Friend Deserve More Than Life On A Chain

Do You Chain Your Dog?


Read why chaining is inhumane and how to bring your dog inside.  Also, you can visit unchainyourdog.org for more information on the subject.
 


There are a variety of reasons why people chain their dogs outside. Many people believe that dogs should live outside, and they keep the dog tied up because he or she escapes the yard or digs in the garden.

Whatever the reasons, fewer dog owners seem to be keeping their dogs tied up outside. And many communities have passed laws against long-term chaining of dogs. Why?

First, more people are learning that continuous tethering is bad for dogs. As pack animals, dogs have been bred for thousands of years to form a strong attachment to a human family. An otherwise friendly and happy dog, when kept continually chained and isolated, often becomes neurotic, unhappy, anxious, and aggressive. In fact, studies show that chained dogs are much more likely to bite than unchained dogs.

In addition, chained dogs may unintentionally hang themselves if they are tethered too close to a fence and attempt to jump it. Chained dogs are also subject to attacks by other animals and cruel humans.

Getting your dog off the chain

Many dog owners have learned to solve the problems that caused them to tie their dogs outside in the first place. If you would like to provide your dog with an alternative to a rope or chain, consider these suggestions:
  • Install a fence if your property does not already have one. Or consider installing a large chain-link dog run. If you install a dog run, make sure it meets these minimum space requirements. Be sure to allow extra space for a doghouse.
  • If you have a fence and your dog can jump over it, install a 45-degree inward extension to the top of your existing fence. Many home improvement stores sell these extensions.
  • If your dog digs under the fence to escape your yard, bury chicken wire to a depth of one foot below where the fence meets the ground (be sure to bend in the sharp edges). Or place large rocks at the base of the fence.
  • If the two previous options don't work for your "escape artist," consider using a cable runner or electronic fencing. These options are not perfect, but they will give your dog more freedom. Be sure to use these options only if you also have a fence that protects your dog from people and other animals.
  • If your dog digs where you don't want him to (such as in a garden or flower bed), consider putting plastic garden fencing or a similar barrier around the area. Or provide your dog with his own sandbox. Bury toys in the sandbox and use positive reinforcement to teach your dog that it is okay to dig there.
  • Enroll your dog in an obedience class—especially if his behavior is the main reason you keep your dog outside.
  • Spay or neuter your dog if you haven't already done so. A neutered dog is less likely to roam and more content to stay at home. These are safe procedures that have many health and behavioral benefits. Ask your veterinarian for more information.
  • Remember that behavior problems such as barking, chewing, and digging are often the result of a lack of stimulation. By providing your dog with proper toys, exercise, "people time," and positive reinforcement, you may alter undesirable behaviors and teach acceptable house manners. In addition, a dog who is inside the house is much more likely to deter an intruder than a dog chained in the yard.

Giving your dog proper shelter

In addition to safe confinement, dogs need adequate shelter from the elements. Dogs kept outside may be unintentionally exposed to bitter cold temperatures in the winter and scorching heat in the summer.

To protect your dog from harsh weather, provide a well-constructed doghouse. However, keep in mind that some breeds with very long or short coats cannot tolerate extreme outside temperatures even when provided with proper shelter.

Also remember that if you have more than one dog, you need to provide a doghouse for each one.

Make it comfy

To provide your dog with a comfortable doghouse, consider these suggestions:
  • The house should be large enough to allow the dog to stand up and turn around comfortably, but small enough to enable the dog to retain body heat.

  • The house should have a slanted, waterproof roof to allow rainwater to run off.

  • If the doghouse is made of wood, it should be raised off the ground at least two inches to prevent the floor from rotting.

  • The door should be just large enough for your dog to enter easily.

  • During the winter months, to protect your dog from cold wind, the door should be covered by a flexible plastic flap—such as a floor runner that doesn't have spikes on one side. A piece of carpet can work in a pinch, but it can get wet and freeze.

  • Clean, dry bedding such as hay, straw, or cedar shavings should be provided. The bedding should be changed weekly to prevent mold and to keep the doghouse sanitary.

  • In warmer months, the dog should also be provided with shade such as a tree or tarp. A doghouse in direct sun becomes an oven and will not keep a dog cool.

  • Finally, anytime your dog is kept outside, be sure to provide fresh water in a tip-proof bowl or large bucket. Make sure the water doesn't freeze during colder months.


Friday, August 31, 2012

Dog Walking Tips




If you have any of these problems when getting ready to take your dog for a walk, here are some tips that might help.

Problem: Pulling on the Leash
  • Use a harness rather than a collar around the neck or a martingale collar.
  • Bring in all of the slack on the leash, where the dog walks side-by-side with you. The dog will be more likely to yield to your directions.
  • Repeat the same verbal commands and gestures (like gently redirecting your pet back to your side and saying “heel”).
  • Treat your dog when he has completed his task.
Problem: Running in Circles Before Putting on the Leash
  • Establish a routine of walking your dog at the same time every day, so there is less surprise and excitement when you get the leash out.
  • When you get the leash out, say the command “sit.”
  • Wait for your dog to calm down and sit before attaching the leash.
  • Treat your dog when he has completed his task.
Problem: Begging to Go For a Walk
  • Take your pet on a walk at the same time every day. As your pet becomes familiar with the routine, he will be less likely to ask for walks at other times of the day.
Problem: Unfriendly Encounters with Other Pets
  • Be cautious when introducing your pet to another unfamiliar pet while on your walk. Your pet may be friendly, but you never know how other pets may react. Always be cautious and introduce your pet to other animals slowly.
The key to having an enjoyable experience while walking your dog is to maintain consistency in your dog walking routine, techniques, and verbal commands.


Taking Your Dog Running 



Dogs can make terrific running partners as long as you take their physical condition and abilities into account. Also keep in mind that your dog may need time to work up to your intensity.

Make sure you check with your veterinarian before taking your dog running, and follow any recommendations that may be provided.
 
Here are some factors to consider when deciding if your dog can or should run with you.
  • Age — Wait at least until your dog has completed his first year’s shot schedule. 
  • Training — Your dog needs to understand walking on a lead before he can run with you. You’ll also want to make sure your dog is focused enough to stick with you when you run. Investing time in training your dog to heel will be a benefit as dogs should be maintained on a leash at all times. Proper training will make the experience more enjoyable for you and your pet.
  • Breed — Although individual dogs within a breed may vary, some breeds enjoy a good run more than others. Dogs with short muzzles and/or short legs often don’t make the best running partners.
  • If your dog is ready to run and has been cleared by your veterinarian, start out slow. Start at a walk and gradually increase the distance covered. Then, intersperse periods of walking and running over time. Add speed and/or distance gradually, and if your dog starts lagging, slow down.
Watch your dog for warning signs of overexertion and injury—frequent rest stops, limping, heavy continuous panting following exercise, bowing legs, yelping when you pick him up or move him. If you see any of these signs, take your pet to your veterinarian.
 
Other Tips:
  • Never exercise your dog right before or just after he has eaten a meal.
  • Offer sips of water as an aid for cooling him down rather than free access to water directly after exercise.
  • Keep in mind that darker colored dogs will likely be affected by the heat and humidity faster than you will.
  • Dogs that have short muzzles will often tire quicker when heat and humidity are high.
  • Make running fun. Talk to your dog and offer praise. 
  • Don’t run him to exhaustion. You want this to be an activity you can both enjoy.